Hey Shawn I have a set of Superspeed weighted training sticks for overspeed training I bought many years ago but never used yet. I was thinking about doing their level 1 overspeed training program but wanted to know if I would do it it in a WIG friendly way. I was thinking about doing it with a target in mind and intermediate point etc…But I don’t want to sabatoage my tempo and timing of my current swing. What are your thoughts on this kind of overspeed training system for WIG?
You can yes, just don’t swing at 100% like they say and get yourself injured! Always use momentum and yes, through ball and intermediate point or through 2 tees;
I feel like I can do these dynamic drills well. My body flows and everything is comfortable. Do you have a video for people like me who are “ball bound”? As soon as I put a ball down, even trying to replicate all these feelings, I get stuck and my body turn always stops at the ball. I simply can’t overcome that.
Hey Shawn. I have really been focusing on intermediate target over the last month. I feel like lately I have not been releasing correctly, especially the driver. Hitting high pushes. So I started focusing on the release of my hands and wrists. Now it seems I am getting scoopy and hitting my irons to high and shorter. Where have I missed the release. I am a former college baseball player, so my tendency is to over swing and spin out with my body. Thanks!
Hey John! You are getting ahead of the ball which means the ball is now too far behind you and you need to reach back; like being late on the pitch and trying to go over the pitcher’s head! We need to get you behind the ball and moving through it; so see “hammer drill”, “contact mile markers”, “blur of club”, “arc blur unstoppable momentum series” and “bolted and centred”!
Shawn,
So I had a fun range session at Top Golf today since the snow has everywhere I play closed. I think I finally figured out a disconnect I’ve been having. I am using the battering ram task as it really seems to light up my kinetic chain. I’m visualizing a pane of glass behind the ball and imagine I have my left cheek lightly pressed against it and I have to keep it there while I perform my battering ram task. I take an effortless full backswing getting as much range of motion as I can without strain and then imagine using the weight of my arms and club to battering ram the butt end of the club through the pane of glass, sending broken glass shards right of my IP to my target. Keeping the cheek gently held against the pane through the task really has led to very consistent ball striking eliminating swaying backward or coming forward. Today I had a lightbulb moment doing this as I realized my grip wasn’t strong enough. I really closed down the face to the point when I hold the club straight out from me it appears almost 70 degrees closed (with irons). I then rotated my arms to make the club appear square to slightly open behind the ball at address. I found this set up looks a lot more like Mu’s with the hands in front of the ball at address, 4 knuckles left hand point up and palm of right hand facing up. I found this pre set of the hands gave me much better wrist hinge. The results of this were mind blowing. I immediately started compressing the ball so much better. Using this set up and task I was hitting my PW 160+ yards and one 9 iron went 180…I hit my 4 hybrid 270 on one which blew me away. Unfortunately they have the very short rubber tees so I wasn’t able to hit my driver as normal with nice high tee but even using the “fairway finder” set up and lower tee, with the ball more center of the stance I still had multiple drives rolling out 310+. I always thought I had a strong enough grip until today I realized like in one of the videos where you mentioned your grip is getting stronger as you think more about going deep to the target. Can’t wait to get to a range where I can tee it up and see how for my driver might carry now. One of my ball speed readings with the driver indicated 170mph. Maybe with a Pro V1x instead of a detuned Top Golf ball I will be able to finally carry the ball 300yds. That’s the goal. I sure have gotten so much following you, Sav and Mu over the years. Hopefully this year is my big breakthrough year to get consistent breaking 80 and shooting high to mid-70s and even maybe scare par. On the Top Golf Simulator of playing St Andrews the other day I played the back tees and shot a 73…so things are definitely getting better! One quick question, I am hitting the latest version of Wishon’s single length irons, the EQ1-NX, lob wedge to 4 hybrid all in 8 iron length. I have long arms for my anatomy so I think that is why I don’t see huge distance drop offs with my longer irons. I remember several years ago you did a comparison of the Wishon Sterling Irons and the Cobra single length product. Would be very interested to hear your thoughts on the latest version of them. Any chance you could do another comparison at some point?
Dave! Awesome comment! I had to put this one aside for the length and forgot to get back to it; what you describe in the progression to the stronger grip is spot on! Man, you are a keen listener and top student in the game; big congrats and I would give you a big bear hug if you were standing in front of me! 💪😀👍🫶
I am working on a secret set of configured irons with Cobra’s head of innovations as we speak; so dom’t buy anything until I have the goods in hand and have confirmation from cobra that they can be ordered properly.
Thanks Shawn! I watched posture yesterday and this video today. For some reason, the braced tilt light bulb went off for me watching this today…I just finished practicing and playing at a virtual golf place…I’ll need to get out and work on this as soon as possible. thanks for your excellent teaching and positive attitude!!
Shawn, I have seen this for myself, as I’m sure you have…where my eyes focus, so goes the clubhead. If I focus on the top of the ball, thin hit or top. Focus behind the ball, fat shot. The intermediate point is gold for sure, but I have found that once I’m set up after zeroing in on my intermediate point, I look once to make sure the clubface is set according to what I’m trying to accomplish, and then I’m laser focused on about 6 or 8 inches between the front of my ball and my roughly one foot of intermediate point as I take the club back and swing through. The fear factor is that your club face will go right over the ball and bottom out on the spot you focused on leaving you with a whiff or a top strike. What I’ve found is that, if I make a proper swing, the clubhead makes excellent contact with the ball and my focus brings the clubhead path right through where I’m looking. Basically I’m not looking at the ball whatsoever, but the results are quite opposite of what one might expect, a pure strike sending the ball pretty much along the point you focused in on. I have done the same thing with my putting stroke, finding my intermediate point, or start line, focusing on about two or three balls past my ball along my start line, and making sure the putter head travels through that spot after impact. Again, phenomenal results with the ball rolling down the desired line. The only exception is hitting driver and I focus on about 3 balls or so before my teed up ball, but in line with my selected intermediate point. Years of opposite aiming practice bring the fear of completely messing up the strike right to your brain because you feel you have to stare at the ball. Once it clicks that the clubhead will actually impact, for the most part, where your eyes are focused and you relax and just swing through, you realize you can now fine tune your targets, not just try to hit toward the general area and hope for a decent result.
Hey Michael! Just saw this comment; you are onto something as I have been experimenting with the exact same thing! It’s funny because it works best for the driver for me. As long as you have your eyes parked at the CORRECT HEIGHT past the ball where the club will be coming up through. I have also had amazing success with the tip of tee where I look and the focus is to make the tee summersault to the left edge of the intermediate point with my “ball on a string” like in the “throwing series hammer throw driver” video. Stay on this, what makes it work fully is the prediction process that you MUST CONFIRM (non negotiable) and the video series is called “the goldilocks series”
keep me posted to your developments please! 😀👍
I’m curious about the release on the pitch and fairway bunker shots. It appears on the video you are not releasing the pitch shot fully (as you would with a normal approach shot). Is there a way to tell, sense or feel what is too much release — and what is not enough when dealing with these 40-70 yard pitches? I believe my tendency is to release fully — which leads to inconsistency.
Hello Gerhard! Sorry about the delay, we are at the PGA Show this week doing our homework for you guys! 😀👍
as for the release with the pitch, I always say to let the weight of the club head release you; that your machine reacts to the momentum of the arm-club unit. On short to medium pitch shots, the amount of momentum is much less intense and the ball and grass and ground you take does slow the rotation down and affects it quite a bit. When your kinetic chain is fully engaged and reacting with full momentum, grip pressure etc, then you have a much more emphatic release. Let the weight of the arm-club unit perform your task (cutting the stem of the dandelion in the direction of the intermediate point) and let the release take care of itself.
Hi Shawn, I’m confused are we supposed to incorporate this fall feeling into what you talked about with the back and forth release practice in part 1 and sending/releasing the grass clippings to the target, and PMD or is this mainly for the squeeze the ball into the door frame task? If it’s for the sending the grass clippings as well can you explain how i’m supposed to incorporate this feeling without thinking about it? When I’m doing the back and forth release drill and send the grass clippings in part 1 or PMD I don’t think or feel about letting the arms fall past a certain point which will then release the club. I just do these without thinking and feeling.
Also, for a more general commentary, in future videos can you explain which feels go with which tasks or if a certain feel (i.e. letting the arms fall) is supposed to go with all tasks.
Hi Shawn,
question about power.
If the hole is at 175 yards, My 7 iron is my 175 full shot club when I flush it, should I be hitting it with a 7i or a softer 6 iron?
Usually I end up trying to hit the club that would be the maximum distance that the club gives me. A lot of times my effort is very high.
Very important here:
If the pin is at the back of the green, and it is 175, then yes, you take the 7 iron and swing smooth; if you flush it, you are at the pin, if you have a good miss, you are centre of green.
if the pin is in front, and the trouble is in front, then it’s a comfortable 6.
Never place yourself in a position to strain, and never release towards trouble unless you have to which should be less than 5% of the time.
Makes sense. Problem I still face is hitting easy. For example with a driver trying to hit long but swinging as if its 220 yards, nice and smooth without strain gives a much longer distance, as the aim is not getting to a target but a maximum you can squeeze out of the swing. Keeping the same distance in mind, hitting a 6 iron, I always leave it short or pull it, when trying to hit it comfy/ easy.
Oops yes that was not clear at all. At the 9 minutes mark, you are talking with Mu about his letting go of the club, I really notice my trail hand wants to let go… could you point me in a video direction when you get a chance? thanks!
This happens when the ball becomes the target, the body stalls, the trail arm hits the side of the rib cage and can no longer go towards the target and there is no choice but to let go. Out of the way, out of the way! Don’t let the right arm hit you going back, and don’t left the left arm hit you on the way through! No collision, and no need to let go of the club.
After watching a bazillion of these videos and practicing a lot, I’m finally, finally, finally getting my body to move the release later so that the club comes into contact squarely when using the “strong” grip method. Up till now, I’ve been getting a huge hook or hitting the ground way before the ball. But I think it’s finally gelling. Hopefully it’s a permanent change in my swing.
A question – when I’m chipping and doing short/mid pitch shots that don’t require power, I still find that I’m getting better results with a more “conventional” swing because I have a smooth/comfortable rhythm that way. Is this going to cause problems with my long game swing?
Hey Theodore! After answering Scott’s question, I re-read your comment and I would like you to see the answer I just left him at the top of the page! 😀👍
Right on Theodore! And with anything less than a full swing where you don’t need to compress the ball, you can go with a weaker grip or a more open face no problem, especially for chipping where the hands stay the same distance in front of the club head and no torque is required to compress the ball.
Hey Shawn, I put some white tape on my driver to see the arc blur and it was eye opening. My blur is constantly veering left of the path I want it to go on and I really can’t seem to correct it. This happens with my woods and driver only. I also find I tend to end up on my back heels after the end of the swing too. Just wondering if there are any tips to get the arc blur not to veer left on the longer clubs. Thanks!
YES YOU BET!! Please see “important driver nugget” and the “diagonal stance series” which will really open your eyes! Then use the “hammer drill” and the “contact mile markers” to fine tune the ball position with fairway woods and driver.
Hey Shawn, just wanted to give an update. I think I had a break through here. I was trying to swing my woods and driver on a more upright arc just like the wedge swings and it kept veering back to the left on the downswing like I was fighting it a bit. It seems that the driver has a much more drastic arc that is more around then up and down. Once i let the driver arc open up more i started getting a consistent arc that I can now direct. The overhead view really helps show that here too just didn’t click until now. Thanks!
Good stuff! You will also see the differences in the driver vs irons in the “throwing series” where we do Short stop throw on wedges, and hammer throw on driver!
Hi Shawn, does “centered and anchored” technique also apply to driver tee shots? I am a senior golfer with 78 mph club head speed. I wonder teeing up the ball higher (e.g., ball is about 3/4 above the driver head) would help me to get higher angle of attack to reduce backspin? Thanks
Playing the ball more forward and teeing it higher and using a diagonal stance; that would really help! See “diagonal stance series” and “great driver nugget” videos
Hi shawn,
my accuracy and distance is consistent at 260 yards.
is there a nugget for when I do need to hit the driver out of the park, for wide open par 5s maybe.
Earlier my go to was swing with aggression, never a good idea, would hit huge slices.
Now I try to go wider, and turn more, always the same result, Starts left and stays left! Pull!
My tee height is way lower than yours, its average, about a little over 1/2 of the ball is above the driver head.
Do suggest what one should do when trying to get that extra bit.
I have changed it Shawn, to a Honma 747 and an Epic 10.5 , with the epic I bought 3 diff shafts. Liking my distance but just wanted to ask about getting that extra bit on drives on certain holes. Or lets say a hole that’s for Long drive prize during a medal round. I tend to just get faster at everything, prepping for a huge drive and usually end up pulling it left.
You can’t hit harder with the force of the arms. You simply use more momentum and legs; see “feet together back to feet apart” and “open up the machine on the golf course” as well as “pumping up the swing volume”
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