Wisdom in Golf Premium

  • From amarjot Bedi on ALLOWING FOR FLOW IN THE SWING WISDOM 2.0

    This is Gold.
    All this while when I tried raising my back foot and planting it to start the swing etc, it was all over the place.
    This video gives clarity to it all.
    The part – I’m in my follow through, (and the feel of being forward), then planting the back foot , going to the ground, kick starting the back swing, made everything fall into place. The most awesome shots I hit with the driver and 3w today. Its early days though, but totally worth it, I even paused at the top ever so slightly.

    Also did keep a swing thought of my right elbow being a little closer and inward rather than letting it fly and face away, stopped the pulls I was hitting completely.

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    • From amarjot Bedi on ALLOWING FOR FLOW IN THE SWING WISDOM 2.0

      Getting awesome contact and distance, and Accuracy! Experimenting with two things that happen when I do the movement before takeaway.

      • This is the same for both where I get into the feel of follow through so its like I am braced against the forward leg, my trail foot’s heel is raised.
      • 1. There is a ever so small pause after planting my trail foot before I start my take away
      • 2. But every now and then I feel the planting of my back foot and my swing starting at the same time. To me this feels that I sway a tiny bit before I pick up my club.

      Gonna try and hit a few balls with both methods and see what results I get.
      The key to raising the back foot was getting into the feel of the follow through with the forward leg, its like weight goes there and then everything feels as if one is in motion even though one isn’t moving.
      Baba

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    • From Shawn Clement on ALLOWING FOR FLOW IN THE SWING WISDOM 2.0

      Option 1 is much better! This is the distinct activation of the kinetic chain into the backswing. 👍👌

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  • From Shing Tan on SLICING & PULLING SERIES - PART TWO

    shawn, i was curious what your thoughts (or critique) are on the stack & tilt way of swinging. where the weight is forward and stays forward, the centre of the circle (or low point) is at the front foot, such that having the ball just behind lead foot would still produce a draw because the path is still in-to-out at the point of impact. it seems to be what some instructors are preaching out there. thought i would pick your brain on this – i know the wisdom in golf task-based approach is quite different!

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    • From Shawn Clement on SLICING & PULLING SERIES - PART TWO

      Hi Shing! I did an extensive study with them 10 years ago and Here are the acid tests that would make their techniques obsolete: uphill shots, downhill shots, ball above the feet, and driver. They went from 2 tour players to 20 and then 2 years later back to none. Yes, every technique has some good nuggets, I learned a better way to work the ball through them but that is where it ended. Too many positions, too many manipulations, too much video analysis.

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  • From Jukka Kymalainen on SLICING & PULLING SERIES - PART TWO

    Still waiting snow melting here in Finland, but after that i will try this 🙂 If you have time, it would be interesting here some Wisdom history. I mean what make you change from that straight “hold” release to full release. Where you invented those hammer gravity drills etc… Not many teacher is talking gravity, weight or falling.

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    • From Shawn Clement on SLICING & PULLING SERIES - PART TWO

      Understanding the fundamental view of what creates tension in the swing and the “pre-motor cortex series”
      when you are getting ready to guide the swing to the target vs “letting momentum release you in the direction you want to start the ball and letting the set up bring the ball to the target effortlessly; both mental and physical; like you were simply a witness to momentum already on the way there and you say hey! If that happens, there will be a good shot! Then it’s easy to let go of control because you have made a prediction that you like!

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  • From Scott Carter on IMPORTANT GRIP UPDATE

    Tried this out and gained a lot more distance 20+ yards on a 7 iron. Problem is I’m not pulling to the left of hitting the mat then ball which i need to nip in the bud! Any tips?

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    • From Shawn Clement on IMPORTANT GRIP UPDATE

      You bet! See “contact mile markers” and feel where the low point needs to be at address without over tilting back; when you over tilt, you place the ball too far forward and pull and scrape… also see “alignment reload” as a very important reset for side vision in the set up.

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  • From Peter Mies on FRICTIONLESS BACKSWING

    hi. just joined so not sure if this is where i ask a question but here goes….ina few videos you were talking about closing the club face at address and then when you get in position the face becomes square…. is that what you do on shots where you are looking for more distance? thanks

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    • From Shawn Clement on FRICTIONLESS BACKSWING

      Hi Peter! If the face is not closed enough, then you will leak out and give away a ton of distance; see the first couple videos in the “consistency series” for that as well as the “important grip update” video and the “goldilocks series” in the “grip and club face relationship video.

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  • From Peter Mies on UNSTOPPABLE MOMENTUM SERIES: PART 3 - Open & Closed Face

    Hi…..so can I close the face down but then when I take my stance with the natural tilt the face squares up even though I have not changed my grip…..is this what you are referring to.? I know that if I open my face I will move the ball right and if I close it will move left. I think I’m missing something

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    • From Shawn Clement on UNSTOPPABLE MOMENTUM SERIES: PART 3 - Open & Closed Face

      You are very close! The key is when you let the momentum deliver your task in the direction you want to start the ball and the speed is past the ball, and the ball curves in the air the way you want, then you have the right combo. Staying with the direction is key! Make sure you see that blur of club stay that way!

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  • From Peter Mies on UNSTOPPABLE MOMENTUM SERIES: PART 3 - Open & Closed Face

    So I guess my question is ….can I turn the face closed……then take my grip and then move into my stance without changing my grip……I do this even when I am hitting short pitch shots and I think it is working just fine…..or do I have the thinking corr3ct but need to fine tune at the range.
    Thanks Shawn

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    • From Shawn Clement on UNSTOPPABLE MOMENTUM SERIES: PART 3 - Open & Closed Face

      You are very close! The key is when you let the momentum deliver your task in the direction you want to start the ball and the speed is past the ball, and the ball curves in the air the way you want, then you have the right combo. Staying with the direction is key! Make sure you see that blur of club stay that way!

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  • From Krista Nabb on TURBO CHARGING TRAIL HAND RELEASE

    Your teaching method has helped me with learning other athletic endeavours. Thank you 🙏

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  • From amarjot Bedi on WISDOM 2.0 FEEL GOOD AND CAPABLE OVER THE BALL

    Hi Shawn,
    Still struggle to hit draws. Either am too scared to go right of target. The ones which I think will draw go dead straight.
    Other than that games improving on a weekly basis.

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  • From Andrej Cuturic on SENIOR SERIES PART 4- THROWING CLUB

    hi shawn, i bought the swing caddie via your site. i have no problem getting it to click on the highest setting (135 mph). but the fastest i can swing driver w/o a ball is around 107mph and with a ball around 98 to 100 mph. any advice or thoughts on this?

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  • From Randy Sutter on CRITICAL FIRST 2 FEET OF BACKSWING WOODS AND DRIVER

    Sean the 1st 2 feet of backswing tug of war thing critical for me once I got used to that it is a different feel from what Ive been doing for 40 years. It is allowing me a fuller release keeping head back and watching the ball go straighter and eliminating the push getting feeling of blur going towards intermediate spot. I am really trying to get the feeling also of collecting the ball and full release. Anyway to make sure I am releasing in the right spot its hard to see? Or anything else you can suggest for me.

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  • From Todd Buchholz on Driver Fine-Tuning - Part 2

    Hello Shawn, it hurts my neck somewhat keeping head down in back swing.

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    • From Shawn Clement on Driver Fine-Tuning - Part 2

      Hi Todd! Sorry I did not get back to you; we had an update in the system and things were not getting to my email box;
      Please do not try to keep your head down in the backswing! You want to get into a position that will allow you to get through the ball and gather momentum to be able to do this; see “contact mile markers” and “tilt mile markers” videos; and stop thinking about the head as it will lock in on it’s own when you deliver shots to the target. See also “blur of club” and “arc-blur unstoppable momentum series” and understand when you stay with the DIRECTION OF THE SHOT, the head takes care of itself!

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  • From Ken Henley on FADE AND DRAW ADVANCED OPTIONS

    After watching several of these videos here on the premium site and dozens more on your you tube channel I have a question regarding the “intermediate target”. (Wasn’t sure where to post this exactly). I get the general idea of it and its purpose but after watching it seems a little unclear to me as to what you are lining the intermediate target up with exactly? Obviously when playing you cannot set a tee or other marker down(as you have noted) so you’d need to pick a bit of grass, an old divot, or something similar as the intermediate target but I’m a little confused as to what you line the intermediate target up with? Sometimes in your online lessons it seems you are lining the intermediate target up with the “actual target” while other times it seems you are lining up the intermediate target with the swing path? Which is it?

    Maybe an example might clarify; I’m 150 out in the fairway to an easy pin right in the middle of the green. Just by coincidence there is an old divot about a foot in front of my ball that lines up exactly with my ball and the flag (middle of the green). Is that my intermediate target and I’ll swing slightly to the left or right (depending on whether I want a draw or fade) or is the intermediate target actually just to the left of that divot (if hitting a fade) or just to the right (if hitting a draw)?

    My thought was the intermediate target is ALWAYS online with THE target and then you swing left or right of that depending on draw or fade but a few of your videos seem to contradict that, or at least that’s how it seems to me?

    Can you clarify the intermediate target for me? Thanks

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    • From Shawn Clement on FADE AND DRAW ADVANCED OPTIONS

      Hey Ken! Sorry, we just updated the system and they are not posting in my emails; just catching up;
      Draw-line up on target and swing right of target to start the ball right and draw back to target
      Fade-line up left of target and swing left of target and let the ball fade back to the end target.
      USE THE INTERMEDIATE POINT THE WAY YOU WANT TO DELIVER THE ARC-BLUR (blur of club) in the direction you want to start the ball.

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  • From Lyle Goodman on SPINNING THROUGH THE BALL!

    Hi Shawn. This spinning feel has really helped my compression and distance with both the irons and woods. It has also increased my strain level. Just seems like I have to swing harder at the bottom feels more like an 8 out of 10. Any drills/video suggestions to help with the strain while retaining the spin motion?

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    • From Shawn Clement on SPINNING THROUGH THE BALL!

      Hey Lyle! Only use momentum to deliver any task; the spinning action is great for engaging the kinetic chain like in the “kinetic chain facilitation and engagement series” and you do need a good dose of tone to be able to deliver through with no collapse in the action; just don’t get ready to force PRIOR TO the action; see “pre-motor cortex series”

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  • From Patrik Fredlund on OVER THE TOP | DEFENSIVE PLAY

    I’m trying to figure whether over the top is my issue, or why I keep slicing even short clubs. I try following the tips of face/grip relationship, intermediate point and so on. But to avoid the right spin, my blade has to be extremely closed and it will still start too much to the right. I cannot figure what the main issue is. Ideas?

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