Thank you Shawn! I am consistently 1 to clubs longer this season after really understanding how to use the kinetic chain. Used to hit 7 from 150 now I feel like I can hit 9 sometimes! 👍
Thank you Shawn! I am consistently 1 to 2 clubs longer this season after really understanding how to use the kinetic chain. Used to hit 7 from 150 now I feel like I can hit 9 sometimes! 👍
Shawn, I understand the concept of letting gravity/fall works in the arm club unit is supposed to work in the golf swing. And I can perform it in my practice swings but how do I stay in that freefall mode when on top of the ball trying to travel over water with people watching. I realize this a silly question to ask but switching from practice to performance and not have any swing thoughts is almost impossible for my analytical mind.
Happy Eagle member here – Since joining, I’ve gained 2 clubs in distance. Last week, I shot 2 over on my home course. Thanks Shawn!
Using our “walk in the park“ PMD swing, I can drive it around 240 yards (~102 mph swing speed). How can I get more? I want to hit it 295 yards like you!
Here are 3 specific techniques that have increased my distance:
⁃ a more pronounced squat that initiates the downswing
⁃ a harder leg push off the ground that throws the club to the target
⁃ using my arms and wrist more to “throw the club to the target”
Or maybe I need a combination of the three? Thanks!
very helpful. On the full swing I assume the right hand (assuming right handed golfer) also always stays above the left on back-swing and under left on follow through. I tend to rotate hands and many teachers preach the tray position on back-swing whereby right hand ends up under left as it would need to do to keep a tray from dumping the dishes on the floor. Results in your system problematic. I can’t wait to try the right hand on top rule on back-swing etc on driving range. Or is this rule wrong in your system of using gravity and momentum???
Before you jump to conclusions; See “lead hand release” and “trail hand release” then “arm motion fine tuning” and “release fine tuning”
Then we can talk!😀👍
Hi Shawn in this video you mention how you sorted out your right elbow so that it stays more in front of you and doesn’t rise up on the backswing causing you to go across the line. As this is a fault which I have which of your videos would help me best to overcome this problem. Many thanks and kind regards Steve
I just have the hardest time slowing everything down and letting gravity and the kinetic chain do it’s thing. I find myself always reverting back to swinging the “rag doll”.
Every once in awhile I can get in the “zone” and everything flows nicely but seems like I always revert back to the old arm swing.
I wish the body had a reboot button!
p.s. I find when I can get the kinetic chain started and getting my weight to the front side my ball striking is vastly improved. Most of the time my arms out race the weight shift.
A beautiful remedy for that is the “walking drill”
See that video on premium and practice that till the cows come home;
It is impossible to walk when you are stick handling the club;
Shawn
I could never doubt your wisdom, but I find that the walking drill helps at the time because I’m so preoccupied with managing all the moving parts, but doesn’t translate quite as well to the course (or, more likely, I haven’t done enough of it!!).
But before every swing, I told myself “Imagine you have to do this all day; use the weight of axe” and it helped me hit some of the best iron shots I’ve ever hit. I think when you’ve played other sports where muscling the ball is less obviously derailing, it’s a hard habit to break.
Hi Doug
Shawn will have better advice than me, but one stage that has helped me is starting from the top of the backswing. Then just doing a tiny up move and hitting the ball. It only works (and helps make sure) if your backswing gets to a properly supported position.
Then, the next stage, is to do a full swing imagining that you’re a lumberjack who has to swing at trees all day (that came straight from Shawn); you have to feel the weight of the axe to use that weight rather than arm the swing. But the first part gives you the feeling – you have to use more kinetic chain because the upswing of the backswing isn’t there.
I hope my experience helps you. This helped me shoot six under my handicap on a course I’d never played before, earlier this week.
I have just ordered mine!
Anyway, just a question here Shawn if I may about the grip covered in one of your videos about weak/strong and how it works. Extremely helpful video which clarified a number of issues. Can’t wait to try adjusting my grip either!
My question is “ Is the grip for the driver equally strong as the one you demonstrate is applicable to the irons?”
Many thanks again for all your sterling work. It is a delight to pay for it-and I am a Scotsman!
Best regards Ian
Thank you for the very kind words Ian!
Some drivers are more draw biased and you won’t need to close as much; some drivers you will need to close more and some about the same.
The key here is when you let the club release in the direction you want to start the ball, how is the ball flying?
Shawn
Hi Shawn and team, dropping the right foot also moves the ball position correct? (since we are essentially just changing direction instead of moving “around the cirlce” of the ball.) Is it fair to say, that when first setting up, line the ball up a little more toward the center (so if normally you’d play off your lead instep, play maybe a ball width toward center). Then when we drop our trail foot back, the ball position should move forward just a smidge to be a nice comfortable position? I think if you don’t adjust for this, then the ball will be too far forward and throw off the prediction?
Hi Shawn, I am really inconsistent with driver , some weeks great others not so good . I recently went to my 5 wood as I was either hitting the 5 wood the same difference or driver was 10 yards further not much in it , however accuracy was much better . I can only use the driver if the ball is just forward of centre, however I do hit it very high.
Ball flight is usually slight fade or straight.
Do have any videos I could watch that might help with consistency with the driver , bad shot is hook and usually results in 2-3 lost balls a round , thanks graham
Yes, ball position will need to change; but not the way that you mention; it will need to move back a smidge; also, when you switch the feet to diagonal, you want to do it with both, not just the back one;
Bottom line is when you feel that the swing will and can stay to the right of the intermediate point, that you feel the tee is at the right place to be clipped slightly on the way up and that the ball can stay in the direction you want it to start;
nothing to do with previous lesson but how fast should you swing?i have heard 50,60 up to 75%.i prefer 80 to 90% and usually have best results there.if i go slower it feels like i’m trying to manipulate and this causes some real doozie shots.i’d appreciate your comments.if you’ve covered this earlier,i’m a new member and havn’t seen it yet. russ
Yes, very good!
You want to be able to swing-whip-swat at 7mor 8 out of 10 for speed; BUT, you want to use only 3-4 out of 10 for effort!!
So yes on speed and compression; NO ON THE EFFORT.
Hi Shawn, I have been following the videos and they have been excellent, win my first medal and have finished 3rd a couple times as well, however I am really struggling with wedges from 100 yards . I keep pulling the shots or hitting them fat or hitting the ball really high and losing 20 yards in the shots
Hi Grahm!
Check the distance to ball with the wedges; they are the shortest clubs in the bag and often I see golfers too far from the ball with the wedges!
Shawn – the avatar shows your head is really steady (no swaying) during the swing. How do you do that? I frequently come out if my shot to see my target, or where the ball is going. This fault is manifested with ballflight way right (or left) with my driver. Thanks.
Bob
No need for the head to come up when the intermediate point I am releasing over is in my immediate peripheral vision right there in front of the ball within 12 inches or less! You want to use the intermediate point to line up AND DELIVER THE ACTION!
Correct! One swing cuts through a stem (saw through the stem from heel to toe) and the same swing and set up sprays sand onto the green where you want the ball to land. Very consistent set up!
Is flipping the wrists on sand shots considered a manipulation? Making the ball the target isn’t just what people do on full swings. It’s even easier to do it on putting and chipping.
Well, what is the focus? Are you trying to lift the ball out of the bunker or are you spraying sand FORWARD towards the green with the sole of the club?
Any advice for bunkers that have almost no sand? One of my home courses has horrible bunkers and it’s really easy to bounce the club into the ball and skull it.
You either have to chunk like in my video on youtube called “sand shot with no sand shawn clement” (yes, I have a video for that too!!😝😎) or a modified long chip swing with the club square from the centre of the stance, which would normally get you a fat chip.
Depends of you are playing a nice strong draw or playing a fade! Fade will be a bit more square since you are already behind the ball since the ball is forward of centre.
Hi Shawn,
I can’t tell you how much I love your content, it’s so refreshing and really makes this game feel attainable!
That being said, I have a heck of a time feeling the draw. (I am a fader by nature).
When setting up for a draw (using an iron), I am currently aligning my stance with my end destination target. So, in your video, I would align my feet at the tree between the flags. I would then “get behind the ball” after moving it slightly back of center. This should make me feel like my club face is pointing toward the white flag to the right of the tree. Is this correct so far? If so, when I swing, am I feeling like I release to white flag? (when I try to feel this release, I generally end up shanking mightily. I think I am “pushing” my arms out to try and “release to the right”.) Do you have any great videos for specifically the draw takeaway and swing through?
P.S. If my above setup is correct, then the movie editors highlighted the white flag instead of the tree during your draw setup. (your feet are pointing to the tree, not the white flag).
Thanks again for all of your effort, the wisdom you share is just so great!
Hey Kevin, thank you!
Draw: aim at the end target, play the ball back of centre, CLOSE THE FACE.
see the first video in the Consistency series to see how much to close. Then see “football drill series” for giving yourself enough space to NOT SHANK.
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