No worries!

Ahh, the old towel trick! I do remember doing one on youtube and you can check that out in the meantime…https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7MeXP_pGQfI

You bet Andy! Exactly right! This is why we call it the short stop throw for the shorter clubs. Shawn

Hey Shawn, thanks for recommending these videos. One thing that struck me was when you held the club straight out at the camera and it looked like the face was shut (7min 27 sec point). You then set it down behind the ball and got your shoulders and arms into a loaded position which then squared the face (looked like your right shoulder dropped lower than left). Are your shoulders slightly closed in this position which then promotes your natural draw. I just worked on the same thing in the house (didn’t hit any balls of course being in the house!) but it did feel like a very solid set up but my shoulders felt quite closed. However, it felt pretty solid. What are your thoughts?

Always match up what you are doing at address to the flight plan of the ball; don’t just copy positions; they have to have a purpose!

Hey Sandy! No, not when you have a target (Flight plan and a direction you want to start the ball); see “throwing the club” video; your brain know when to let go when you have a target in mind; if no target, it can go anywhere because you are attacking the ball only; and the ball is a sphere that can be attacked by an infinity of directions and angles of attack (like if we were standing in a round room and I tell you to go stand in the corner)
I repeat again; you are not defective and there is nothing to prevent against. There is just you and a target.

Camera angles can definitely be deceptive; goldie locks is your best friend in this case. Both with the tilt at the set up and the ball positions. See “goldie locks series” video and then “fade fine tuning” and “draw fine tuning” videos. Shawn

Many thanks Shawn. Goldilocksed a few on the range and it seems as though I was overdoing the body tilt with the 3 iron. Got away with it with the medium irons but the longer 3 iron had me sticking it in the dirt and pushing at the ball. I think part of the problem is that the diagonal stance feels so comfortable with the body tilted further back and the weight more over the back foot. Thankfully I’m more centred and bolted now with the 3 iron. Hope the e book is coming along nicely. All the best Steve.

There you go! Awesome! That is exactly how you do it; well done!

For me it is just a couple of degrees from a draw driver-start with that-to a fade. And I stay very close to the intermediate point in front of the ball, grazing it on either side keeping it as tight as possible unless the hole is nice and open and you can go a little Bubba on it! 😀👍

Right on Kevin!
Thank you for the important feedback; so happy you are enjoying your golf!!

Fades are a bit more natural because of our side vision tendencies as humans. See the “Alignment reboot” video on premium I put out towards the top of the list; works very well to get you going.
Then see “fade fine tuning“ and “draw fine tuning”
Finally, if you are set up for the draw and you are in a nice position to release out to the right of the intermediate point but don’t feel that the ball will curve back to the left, how are you ever going to get that done? Impossible to let it go if you feel that way; so see “lead hand release” and “trail hand release” and release fine tuning videos. And how closed should the face be? See the first video on the “consistency series” and really take that one to heart as so many of my students don’t close the face enough because of the initial “weird” feeling it gives-but when we persevere, the results are 15 to 30 yards longer and the squeeze they get through the ball is ABSOLUTE BLISS. 😀👍

Hey Shawn,
I haven’t been able to move the ball to the left with my driver at all . I would like to send you a video of my swing. Hopefully you can get me back on track. For the past few months I have been playing some of my best golf ever, but I’m starting to Shank the ball again.

Sure thing Carlo! Send me a video at [email protected]
3 second clip from down the line and face on with a 7 iron; make sure you have an intermediate point that is easily visible. Shawn.

Hey Andy!
Imagine doing just like a sledge hammer; the arms and hammer fall down an arc around the sternal notch along the ground and back up the other side; see “anti manipulation” video on premium…

Right on Jeremy! Say hello to Donna!

See the following videos:
‘Chipping”
‘Pitching”
“long pitch shots”
‘Kinetic chain series part 1-7”
Shawn

Ok, let’s start with small curves;
Short irons can ONLY DO small curves with the fade and you will lose 1 club with wedges, 1/2 club with short irons, and nothing with 5 iron and down.
You can hook short irons and even wedges though and this will add a club in distance with wedges, a half club with short irons, and nothing with longer irons and woods…unless off the tee with the 3 wood; you can draw those very nicely and add about 10 to 15 yards.
Shawn

I don’t because it is not a concern when delivering your shots to a picture. Lower shots have more lean and higher shots have less through impact. The flight plan dictates this. What you want at address is to have a set up that allows you to swing into the flight plan. Generally, when you are letting the weight of the arms and club hang from the shoulders, the left hand being higher that the right, you will have a little natural shaft lean. See the first video in the consistency series to help. Shawn