Absolutely you can! But not because you do it a certain way with the irons; many of my students close the woods more and many close less and others the same; use goldie-locks based on your target bound release and enjoy the process of fine tuning those fades and draws (use fade fine tuning and draw fine tuning videos too!)
I really like the go-pro shots, what I see is that the ball has a diagonal path across the club face from the heal to the outer face, if i’m saying it right, I always felt that the club had to be square with the ball on contact, even when opening the face, and the ball still comes out in the direction I want, and the added bit with the ball sitting up on the grass was great, because I always went to low and the ball went nowhere. Thanks
Shawn excellent video. I just wanted know something. Where do you position the tape on the top of the driver. It appears to form a “V”. Is there any significance to where the point is positioned and can you do this with your fairway woods and hybrids
Hi Shawn just seen you hitting from in the rough under trees you hit a low fade can you shape your shots from any lie as from our muddy rough under trees i just seem to get it out to the fairway. To hit the shot you did would i need a fast swing speed and power or just more skills as i can only hit my driver the distance you hit your shot.
There is a saying in golf: “You gotta dance with who you brung”
speed is important for spin yes; start with throwing some clubs and go over all the “release” videos and get good at that first; then use the “goldie locks series” to put the ball in the way of your throw; then the “target confirmation series” to lock in on the throw and full snap release past the ball!
Hey Shawn, I think I have mentioned I am getting back into golf after a six year hiatus. I had adopted the method of closing my club face and it served me well for the years before I stopped playing. But now I am having a problem and for the life of me I am struggling to figure out the cause. Using my GC3 I see my swing is inside out around 8-12 degrees and every shot I hit is a draw. My swing used to be over the top (outside in) but now it is the opposite.
It is not so bad with my shorter irons like the GW, PW & 9, but anything longer I am not getting distance and making poor contact. To be fair I am not getting much distance with any of my irons. My club head speed is low for someone as strong as I am, but that is another issue.
I see when I film my swing I am not coming through with my hands and somewhat flipping at the ball so the IO swing is putting a lot of side spin on the ball making it curve. I won’t call it a draw since I am not trying to do it. If I do play a draw I can get it on target, but not with much power.
Are there some drills I can focus on to get my hands to come through ahead of the club. Or maybe I just need to get some pictures of my swing for you too look at. It is getting really frustrating. I am planning to go in for an iron fitting and get some more forgiving clubs like the Apex DCB, but I need a more consistent swing before I do that.
Get some club throwing going and then the “Goldie locks series” and the “football drill series” and when that is getting you deeper into the target get some “fade fine tuning” to balance the swing with “how to match backswing to ball direction”and “task update” and the “kinetic chain facilitation series”. See how that goes and get back to me!
Shawn , I’ve video taped my swing and on my backswing I’m swinging to flat and to the inside of lifting the club , the first third of the swing looks ok but I’m laying the club off badly at the top ( plus over swinging like before lol ) any advice or drills ?
I just had an ah ha moment. I have watched this video several times plus many others and just realized the sequence of where the ball collects on the face towards he hosel and eventually squares. This is why even with your club 20 degrees closed looks slightly open at setup. Duh!
You bet! As long as you do not modify during the round! All approved by the USGA! Per USGA Interpretation 4.a(6) – Features above the top line of the head:
. For woods and irons, features which otherwise meet the requirements for “plain in shape” must not extend above the top line of the head by more than 0.1 inch (2.54 mm).
• Permanent or semi-permanent lines or other markings which have been painted, inscribed or otherwise incorporated (see Section 1a) for alignment purposes are permitted. Pinstriping is allowed per below.
Thanks for all you and your team do for this game!
Ray Casey
Using pinstriping tape to put alignment lines on your driver would not be an issue. We have deemed the pinstriping tape to be semi-permanent and can be used for the purpose. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Jeff Banchansky
Associate, Equipment Rules and Conformance USGA
Is it possible to …
1) add the playback speed controls to the videos
2) add a personal tracking feature that marks videos that I have watched
3) organize the videos in each section in the recommended order of viewing
There are some limitations to our site and the video system is provided by Vimeo, one of the top companies and they have not upgraded their players in a while; would be great if they could!
I’ve been playing golf for 51 years and this drill finally taught me a golf swing which is to say – taught me the proper impact position/sequence and the feeling/feedback is awesome – bliss on a stick. But, there is no perfect and no automatic just more fun knowing the right way. Thanks Shawn!
Shawn. In ‘ Unstoppable momentum, open closed face’ you describe the neutral grip, closing the clubface and then the grip at address looks as if it is strong, as with Savy’s driver grip. Is this the same process for the driver, neutral grip, closing face and then working out how closed it needs to be?
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