Wisdom in Golf Premium

  • From amarjot Bedi on On Course Playing Lessons

    Hi Shawn,
    question about power.
    If the hole is at 175 yards, My 7 iron is my 175 full shot club when I flush it, should I be hitting it with a 7i or a softer 6 iron?

    Usually I end up trying to hit the club that would be the maximum distance that the club gives me. A lot of times my effort is very high.

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    • From Shawn Clement on On Course Playing Lessons

      Very important here:
      If the pin is at the back of the green, and it is 175, then yes, you take the 7 iron and swing smooth; if you flush it, you are at the pin, if you have a good miss, you are centre of green.

      if the pin is in front, and the trouble is in front, then it’s a comfortable 6.

      Never place yourself in a position to strain, and never release towards trouble unless you have to which should be less than 5% of the time.

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    • From amarjot Bedi on On Course Playing Lessons

      Makes sense. Problem I still face is hitting easy. For example with a driver trying to hit long but swinging as if its 220 yards, nice and smooth without strain gives a much longer distance, as the aim is not getting to a target but a maximum you can squeeze out of the swing. Keeping the same distance in mind, hitting a 6 iron, I always leave it short or pull it, when trying to hit it comfy/ easy.

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  • From Krista Nabb on ONE LEG DRILL UPDATE-PURE POWER!

    Hi Shawn! It looks like you indicated letting go with the trail hand – any thoughts on why this would be in the release, not the take away. Thanks 🙂

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    • From Shawn Clement on ONE LEG DRILL UPDATE-PURE POWER!

      Hmmm, trying to figure out context and what minute you saw that one Krista!

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    • From Krista Nabb on ONE LEG DRILL UPDATE-PURE POWER!

      Oops yes that was not clear at all. At the 9 minutes mark, you are talking with Mu about his letting go of the club, I really notice my trail hand wants to let go… could you point me in a video direction when you get a chance? thanks!

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    • From Shawn Clement on ONE LEG DRILL UPDATE-PURE POWER!

      This happens when the ball becomes the target, the body stalls, the trail arm hits the side of the rib cage and can no longer go towards the target and there is no choice but to let go. Out of the way, out of the way! Don’t let the right arm hit you going back, and don’t left the left arm hit you on the way through! No collision, and no need to let go of the club.

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  • From Theodore Inoue on IMPORTANT GRIP UPDATE

    After watching a bazillion of these videos and practicing a lot, I’m finally, finally, finally getting my body to move the release later so that the club comes into contact squarely when using the “strong” grip method. Up till now, I’ve been getting a huge hook or hitting the ground way before the ball. But I think it’s finally gelling. Hopefully it’s a permanent change in my swing.

    A question – when I’m chipping and doing short/mid pitch shots that don’t require power, I still find that I’m getting better results with a more “conventional” swing because I have a smooth/comfortable rhythm that way. Is this going to cause problems with my long game swing?

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    • From Shawn Clement on IMPORTANT GRIP UPDATE

      Hey Theodore! After answering Scott’s question, I re-read your comment and I would like you to see the answer I just left him at the top of the page! 😀👍

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    • From Scott Carter on IMPORTANT GRIP UPDATE

      What made it finally connect? I’m in a similar spot to where you were previously 😁

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    • From Shawn Clement on IMPORTANT GRIP UPDATE

      Right on Theodore! And with anything less than a full swing where you don’t need to compress the ball, you can go with a weaker grip or a more open face no problem, especially for chipping where the hands stay the same distance in front of the club head and no torque is required to compress the ball.

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  • From Frank Zoff on TASK 2.0 DRIVER BLUR

    Hey Shawn, I put some white tape on my driver to see the arc blur and it was eye opening. My blur is constantly veering left of the path I want it to go on and I really can’t seem to correct it. This happens with my woods and driver only. I also find I tend to end up on my back heels after the end of the swing too. Just wondering if there are any tips to get the arc blur not to veer left on the longer clubs. Thanks!

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    • From Shawn Clement on TASK 2.0 DRIVER BLUR

      YES YOU BET!! Please see “important driver nugget” and the “diagonal stance series” which will really open your eyes! Then use the “hammer drill” and the “contact mile markers” to fine tune the ball position with fairway woods and driver.

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    • From Frank Zoff on TASK 2.0 DRIVER BLUR

      Hey Shawn, just wanted to give an update. I think I had a break through here. I was trying to swing my woods and driver on a more upright arc just like the wedge swings and it kept veering back to the left on the downswing like I was fighting it a bit. It seems that the driver has a much more drastic arc that is more around then up and down. Once i let the driver arc open up more i started getting a consistent arc that I can now direct. The overhead view really helps show that here too just didn’t click until now. Thanks!

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    • From Shawn Clement on TASK 2.0 DRIVER BLUR

      Good stuff! You will also see the differences in the driver vs irons in the “throwing series” where we do Short stop throw on wedges, and hammer throw on driver!

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  • From Sam Choi on Bolted and Centered

    Hi Shawn, does “centered and anchored” technique also apply to driver tee shots? I am a senior golfer with 78 mph club head speed. I wonder teeing up the ball higher (e.g., ball is about 3/4 above the driver head) would help me to get higher angle of attack to reduce backspin? Thanks

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    • From Shawn Clement on Bolted and Centered

      Playing the ball more forward and teeing it higher and using a diagonal stance; that would really help! See “diagonal stance series” and “great driver nugget” videos

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  • From amarjot Bedi on Driver Fine-Tuning - Part 2

    Hi shawn,
    my accuracy and distance is consistent at 260 yards.
    is there a nugget for when I do need to hit the driver out of the park, for wide open par 5s maybe.
    Earlier my go to was swing with aggression, never a good idea, would hit huge slices.
    Now I try to go wider, and turn more, always the same result, Starts left and stays left! Pull!

    My tee height is way lower than yours, its average, about a little over 1/2 of the ball is above the driver head.

    Do suggest what one should do when trying to get that extra bit.

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    • From Shawn Clement on Driver Fine-Tuning - Part 2

      Like I told you last time; time to get fit for a new Driver! The new Dark Speed Driver from Cobra is amazing; must try!

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    • From amarjot Bedi on Driver Fine-Tuning - Part 2

      I have changed it Shawn, to a Honma 747 and an Epic 10.5 , with the epic I bought 3 diff shafts. Liking my distance but just wanted to ask about getting that extra bit on drives on certain holes. Or lets say a hole that’s for Long drive prize during a medal round. I tend to just get faster at everything, prepping for a huge drive and usually end up pulling it left.

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    • From Shawn Clement on Driver Fine-Tuning - Part 2

      You can’t hit harder with the force of the arms. You simply use more momentum and legs; see “feet together back to feet apart” and “open up the machine on the golf course” as well as “pumping up the swing volume”

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  • From amarjot Bedi on Wisdom in Golf 1.0 - Part 2

    Hi Shawn,
    when I started with you, I brought a problem to you of hitting the outer part of my irons towards the toe. It did get resolved but I stopped paying attention to it as I was improving on a daily basis.

    Recently realized I still hit towards the toe. Also realized that at impact my club face is slight turned inwards/closed.

    I saw this happening more on the wedges than the longer irons, specially the 30-90 yard shots. The ball strike is always towards the toe.

    Been trying to figure out why?
    Ball position?
    face too closed at address / with a strong grip.
    Swinging across?
    I have been trying to rectify that by manipulating the club by keeping square for a longer time after impact. Which gets the strike to the center but with distance loss.

    Any thoughts?

    Also please do see the videos I sent when you have the time of full iron shots.
    Thank you

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  • From Theodore Inoue on WISDOM 2.0 WRIST HINGE AND ARM ROTATION

    The single handed drills with either arm feels great, I get fast smooth action and a good whoosh well past the center. But when I use two hands, my arms struggle against one another. I loose a lot of speed and the release becomes really awkward. At times with the club when hitting balls, I find I have to let one arm go limp and just “hold on for the ride” while the other does all the work. What can I do to get the arms coordinating better?
    I have shorter than normal arms and feel like when locked together in a grip, they just have no freedom of movement.

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    • From Shawn Clement on WISDOM 2.0 WRIST HINGE AND ARM ROTATION

      Hey Theodore! My arms are short as well! The best drill ever for release is the “important release update” video; none of my students fail this one after 3 tries; there is no way for the lead hand to stay on the trail hand if it does jot learn how to YIELD. Simply amazing drill!!

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    • From Theodore Inoue on WISDOM 2.0 WRIST HINGE AND ARM ROTATION

      Thanks for the quick reply! I’ll give it another view.
      I did a bunch of videoing and also found that my arm motion changes as I add swing weight (turning the club around to normal after swinging with the head in my hand). It was subtle, but I can see that with the club weight, I’m unconsciously holding my leading elbow to my side causing all sorts of bad counter-effects – extension at the ball, weird follow-through body motion etc. I need to reprogram myself to let the lead arm swing more freely.

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    • From Shawn Clement on WISDOM 2.0 WRIST HINGE AND ARM ROTATION

      What you need to find out is what is preventing you from delivering your task to the flight plan and short circuiting you. See “goldilocks series” and get that checked out fully and then see “stick your finish despite the ball” and see what happens to the ball when you stay on task and it will give you the pattern you need!

      here are the non-negotiable items:
      Here is the Pre shot routine’s non negotiable items: 
       
      1-Best option for shot
      2 rules: 1-Release into safe direction and 2-No strain required to execute your shot

      2-Choose flight plan-what line do you want to start the ball and what line do you want to end? (include roll out) 

      3-Choose intermediate point; can be straight on or slightly off line, as long as it’s easy to see and well into your peripheral vision (6 to 12 inches in front of ball only) 

      4-Confirm alignment of momentum-get ready to see the blur of the path of the club and match it to the ball and intermediate point and prepare to make the ball a PRECISE INTERSECTION on the way through the IP into the flight plan! 

      5-Confirm ball position matches the flight plan and the direction you want to start the ball.

      6-Confirm distance to ball and see that when you let momentum ride through the blur through ball and IP that you don’t feel the need to reach out from being too far or hold on from being too close and you can let it ride

      7-Confirm Grip club relation; see that you know it will curve the way you want to in the air once you allow the momentum to release you through the arc-blur into the flight plan through ball and IP 

      8-Confirm levels with relaxed and engaged legs; legs are ready to heave the arms and club into the backswing that would match the direction of the flight plan; and feels like you are ready to allow that solid dose of momentum to ride through the arc-blur through the ball and IP into that flight plan

      9-Ready? Where is that dose of momentum? Witness the shot that is being played out for you; you have done your homework and it’s time to get out of the way and let it happen with full abandon; the glue that holds EVERYTHING together is the staying with the direction of flight.

      10-once you have confirmed that you stayed with letting momentum execute task through blur of club into flight plan it’t time to observe: 
       
      11-scale of 1-5 how free was it and did you stay all the way through with direction? 
      12-what is pattern of flight?
      13-how is contact pattern
       
      Solutions for these patterns that result from your shots:
       
      Pulling and slicing pattern
      -alignment reload
      -blur of club and arc blur series
      -goldilocks ball position
      -important grip update
      -goldilocks grip and club face 
       
      Hooking and pushing pattern
      -using the weight in swing-axe drill with Savy
      -backswing levitation
      -Battering ram and Shawn’s New Favourite
      -goldilocks grip club
       
      Thin and top and toe pattern
      -feet together and back to feet apart
      -kinetic chain facilitation and engagement
      -Alignment reload
      -arc blur and club blur
       
      Fat and shank pattern
      -target confirmation series
      -stick finish despite ball series momentum
      -kinetic chain facilitation
      -goldilocks distance to ball
      -football drill series 
       
      Toe shots driver and fairway woods
      -Diagonal stance series
      -Distance to ball goldilocks 
       
      Heel shots driver and fairway woods 
      -blur of club
      -arc blur series
      -hammer throw driver
      -goldilocks distance to ball
       
      Shawn

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  • From Brett Sparrow on BACKSWING LEVITATION

    Should I keep clubface square going into backswing or turn my wrist over. If you were to see me swing my clubface points towards the sky but I watch you and the toe points towards ground and or clubface points towards your back. Which do you recommend. It’s really been bothering me. Thanks And God bless

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    • From Brett Sparrow on BACKSWING LEVITATION

      I make great contact keeping it square but I do wonder if it could be hurting me in someway

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    • From Shawn Clement on BACKSWING LEVITATION

      Hey Brett! This is when understanding human anatomy is a huge plus; no stress! You are made to properly fold if you ALLOW the arms and club to fold on their own without holding off or manipulating to make it fold. Please see the “perpetual motion drill series” and when swinging from the follow through back into the backswing, let gravity and the G forces release you into the backswing.

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  • From Matthew Costello on Kinetic Chain Engagement

    Shawn one thing I’ve been focusing on lately is really driving into the ground to initiate the backswing. Legit feel?

    Almost like I’m pushing down on the earth to levitate the ACU up, replanting the left heel, then doing the same in the opposite direction. Down – up – down – up

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    • From Shawn Clement on Kinetic Chain Engagement

      Awesome Matt! Exactly! Like when you do the walking drill or the “kinetic chain facilitation and engagement series” where I am walking and sending grass divots into the bushes! There are 2 kinetic chains in the swing that are reunited by the transition.

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    • From Matthew Costello on Kinetic Chain Engagement

      Another lightbulb! I was more “up down up” without the initial down. But the beginning of the backswing from a static position is really just the end of the forward swing if you did perpetual motion drill. So the little down to heave the club up is really just sort of the jumper cable for the entire swing

      This also makes my tempo feel inevitable. The initial pressure down w my feet creates a really smooth automatic transition into my downswing. Good stuff!

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  • From David Shin on Braced Tilt

    Hi Shawn, I am not able to keep my tilt through my swing especially at the top of the backswing. I start with a good tilt but when I get to the top it looks on camera like am straight up and down. Looks like my head moves quite a bit. I’ve watch 100s of your videos and would appreciate any tips to keep the tilt throughout my swing.

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    • From Shawn Clement on Braced Tilt

      Hi David! Yes! See “tilt mile markers” and “head and hip swivel” for more in depth feel; these are there for this exact issue and for more application, practice this on uphill lies, but OUR WAY FOR UPHILL SHOTS, see “uphill shots” video; all these right here on premium!
      let me know which one does the trick!

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  • From Adam on FRICTIONLESS CONTACT

    Have you seen the ProSendr wrist device designed by Sean Foley? Could your swing work with that on or is that teaching something it shouldn’t?

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    • From Shawn Clement on FRICTIONLESS CONTACT

      Hi Adam! I am not a fan of that device as it compensates for the inadequacies of the lack of strength in the grip-club relationship and the dual pendulum nature of the arc-club unit as it loads and unloads in the swing. Golfers who have weak to neutral grips and who don’t understand the dynamic aspect of impact need to manipulate the wrists to square the face, so they will bow the left wrist or cup the right wrist with this device to compensate…

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  • From Derek Skinner on Over the Ball

    Hi Shawn, I’m wondering whether you have some insight into how much forward shaft lean to apply at address with irons. Should the grip be vertical at address with irons? Or pointed more towards the inner left thigh? Thank you.

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    • From Shawn Clement on Over the Ball

      When you are behind the ball, there will be a natural forward shaft lean as you don’t ever want to feel like you are manipulating the hands into any positions at address; you want to feel like the arm-club unit is hanging below the shoulders and already in the process of being in the follow through; see “braced tilt” video

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    • From Derek Skinner on Over the Ball

      Thank you for clarifying. I appreciate it.

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  • From [email protected] on FRICTIONLESS CONTACT

    Hi Shawn,

    Just saw your latest YouTube short using the battering ram task. The battering ram task has been a game changer for me. As I continue to practice, I’ve found that thinking about “ramming” the butt end of the club to the desired side of the intermediate point and into the direction I want to send the ball has helped me with better dispersion and also simplify my release. I am Really trying to be frictionless in all aspects and simplify my tasks as much as possible. Thinking sending the butt end of the club in the “jack-Knife” or Battering Ram position out to a target I pick out in the distance where I want to start the ball also seems to help me get more “through the ball”. Can you explain more what you are specifically thinking direction-wise when performing the battering ram task in terms of also being “frictionless” in the delivery and release? I think sometimes I may be inadvertently holding on too long to the battering ram position which creates unwanted friction. Also, I’m wondering why I have to really close the club face/strengthen the grip significantly more on my irons, but to avoid too much draw or even hooks it seems like I really have to back off the grip and use much less of a strong grip with my fairway woods and driver. Any idea on why that may be?

    Dave

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  • From Paul Gibson on OFF SEASON ACCELERATED LEARNING | PART 4 TILT PRACTICE

    Great session, tried with the hammer and then back and forth with a club just picking moss off the surface of my artificial turf.

    I could really feal an awareness of club head and amazing release in the direction I want to go! Dying to get to the range tomorrow

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