Have you done a video of actually spinning them just to visualize what it means when you say spinning it. On a driver my swing thought is hitting thru the head of the tee with the feel of tumbling it forward towards target. If yes, please share the link.
Hello Shawn, I wanted to understand the correct club position at the top of the backswing. From what I can infer (please correct me if I am misunderstanding) your club is parallel to the ground, and the club head is closer to/in line with your left ear (red line in the image below). My club head tends to be away from my left ear, almost collapsing and from here I struggle to create any power and lag.
Do you rotate your forearms at the top of the backswing to bring the clubhead towards the red line? I just joined the community today so if there are any videos of yours you could redirect me to, I’d appreciate that.
hi Shawn, also – are there any specific videos you would point out for holding my lag? I’ve tried moving the ball further in my stance to avoid casting but still struggle to keep my lag causing loss of distance (e.g. 7 iron ~155 yards)
Hey Neel; yes of course! See “how to match backswing to ball direction” as well as “weight shift with Savy” which will be extremely important for understand how the weight shifts from backswing to downswing and completing your turn makes a huge difference with that. Next you want to see “throwing the club” and the “throwing series” for your lag; then understanding how the ball gets in the way of your throw towards the target with the “goldilocks series” and the “target confirmation series”
Thanks Shawn! I’ve tried this on the range and was practicing the throwing and matching the backswing to ball direction with short irons as I found it easier to visualize the plane. I would like to send a couple of videos for analysis after I’ve registered these new concepts, and was wondering if down the line or face on angle is preferred – or both. My biggest issue at the moment I feel is holding my lag due to which I am struggling with distance.
Hi Shawn new member here. Did I hear you correctly when you said that the golfer should be facing slightly off to the right in order for the club to pass towards the target because if the golfer faces the target he’ll come over the top and send the club to the left of the target? Thanks
Hi Stephen; this one is important; we have a video called “alignment reload” which will explain this in detail and I can’t tell you how important this is. Massively fundamental.
Human vision is very particular and when ignored, can have you reacting to a lot of mirages!
Hey David! See “turbo charge lead hand and trail hand release” which launched Mu into long drive and turned him into a monster! 😀👍
see also “using the weight in your swing-axe drill with Savy”
you simply want to use the weight of the arm club unit and use the legs to throw or heave into a throw. This will get you a better squat in the downswing to get through the ball-grass ground. Another fantastic series is “kinetic chain facilitation and engagement series” #6 is my favourite!
Shawn, loving your videos! I got away from the basics of grip and release and found myself trying to force power rather than let the club release to generate that much needed clubhead speed to compress the ball and create distance. My question is: How much grip pressure should be on the club? With my wedges and shorter irons my release is smooth with light grip pressure but when I try to maintain lighter grip pressure on longer irons and woods; I don’t make solid contact and it feels super weak. When I try to grip tighter, it’s harder to feel that full release. What are some of your thoughts on this? Thanks again!
Hey Andy! Sorry for the delay, crazy week transitioning to the outdoor set-up for summer, can’t wait to get outside and feel that warm sun on my face! 😀
the term for grip is SECURE; the pressure exerted is always on a reaction to the flight plan and the lie you are in; thick rough would be 7/10 where as 50 yard pitch is 4 and light chip going downhill on the green is a 1 and Driver 6/10
the tone for the grip comes from the forearms and when the club generates enough G-force, like a driver, you will be able to get it to snap release no problem; goldilocks the grip pressure in your practice and see what works in each situation; use the drill in the “important release update” video to keep the release oily in between shots out on the golf course if the release starts to sputter.
also, if the legs are too quiet because you are being too careful out there on the golf course, it can hinder the action of the release; see “turbo charge lead hand and trail hand release”( Mu went from ok golfer to long drive machine after those) and re-up on “feet together” and “feet together back to feet apart” videos which are massive for ground force reactions.
Shawn, at 17:50, you mention that there are two options at address: either square up the clubface by getting behind the ball and rotating the arms, or the other option (which I don’t quite understand) resembling a more neutral setup but with a closed clubface. Does this mean that the clubface points approximately 30 degrees left of the target at setup? Is that what you mean, or am I misunderstanding something? I’m thinking it must be difficult to aim at a target if the clubface isn’t aligned with the target at setup, even if it’s centered at impact.
Yes, exactly; I lost a big junior tournament to a now professional who had his club face exactly like that. I was looking at him thinking I was going to kick his butt and he beat me by 5 shots that day; 67 to my ok 72. I still remember his name! Jimmy Vendette!
So when I started teaching, I realized 90 percent of my students did not have an adequate grip and club relationship and made many of them close the face this way and it worked all the time; but everyone was like, “but what are other golfers I play with going to say? Then I realized and learned the DYNAMIC REASON FOR IT and compared to Hockey and Jai Alai and Other sports and we are here now with these options to get penetrating, compressed, squeezed and jump off the face contact towards your targets.
And when you do somewhere in between these options, and put you swing on video face on, you realize, hey, everything looks good! 😝😀👍
I have a tendency to go straight into a tree if I have a 7 wood in my hand, usually its due too speeding up everything, trying to go for it. Easier the takeaway more chances of clearing a tree.
Hey Shawn. Wondering if it is okay to start the swing with the second pendulum. So instead of the pendulum sequence 1-2-1-2, it would be 2-1-1-2. Tried this as a drill once remembered being more aware of the weight of the club head in the swing and perform the release effortlessly.
Hi Shawn, what should I take away from this video and practice on the range? Should I practice what you are doing in slow motion to get the feel of the two pendulums? I don’t feel this emphatically when I’m using the task of throwing the club or cutting dandelions so how can I marry this feel with the task.
Great question!
go with “battering ram drill” and “backswing levitation” and “match backswing to ball direction” videos; We have been doing the proper things all along, but the darn golf teaching industry keeps banging on the deep arms drum and it is not necessary!
Question regarding pendulum 2 in both directions. Should the momentum from pendulum 1 essentially load P2? Especially in the backswing. I think I’m manipulating p2 in both directions sometimes.
When I try to actively hold off P2 in the backswing it loads anyways and forces me to use the ground to heave the club back with enough momentum for it to load. This seems to create some additional width in my backswing and creates a beautiful 90 degree angle which I’ve always struggled to achieve.
From there if I allow the club to fall as P1 is happening, then perform the get out of the way task using the ground to get my hips and rib cage to clear, P2 seems to unload on its own, even if I try and hold it off.
Kinetic chain moves p1, momentum from p1 loads p2. No active manipulation of P2 in either direction? Do I have that correct? Then just add additional momentum to P1 in each direction to add more speed?
Follow up question: if using get out of the way as the task, is deploying momentum over the IP (left for fade right for draw) a suitable task?
Hi Shawn, when placing you glove hand on the club what is the relationship between the thumb and the club face i.e. does the thumb point direct down the golf pride logo?
Thanks
Stewart
hi Stewart!
top of thumb is at 1:00 and the tip of the thumb is at 12:30 (could be 11:00 back to 11:30 depending on how you look at it) or slightly from the inside so that at the top of the backswing you get amazing support from the thumb under the shaft when the wrists hinge fully. Straight down would be too weak, Inside the golf pride logo by one hour approximately.
This is where I say that this is the reason why tour players prefer the fade over the draw; because of ball position more forward makes fade family and to draw against that feel more against the grain; this is where Hogan’s Diagonal stance comes in for the draw; see “important driver nugget” video
Hi Shawn,
I use the reverse claw ( tommy fleetwood) where thumb is target side and index finger behind. Only way my face is controlled other grips (left hand above, left hand below etc) give me the yips, The basic claw was great and a keeper where index is facing away and thumb towards body, but face would either be mostly closed and if i tried it would be open.
The reverse claw keeps the face square without me trying.
Should one keep the lead arm connected to the body? I tried it , it helps.
Lines really mess it up for me. But great insight to visualize hitting it past the hole not to the hole, gonna try it.
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