I enjoyed seeing how she was able to transform her initial move into a full turn and then effortlessly drop the hammer on the ball. That was a wonderfully athletic move. Please pass long my thanks for demonstrating.
Sean, Please can you describe the ball positions with driver for a fade and a draw. Is it still off the lead instep or do you alter for draws and fades? By the way my best shots appear to be going dead straight but I love your instruction and enjoying the continuous learning process with Wisdom in Golf!!
Good stuff! The approach with ball position is much more about the “fit” into the flight plan; you set up using the intermediate point and then “predict” which ball position will allow you to swing freely into the direction you want to start the ball. See “the goldie locks” series for that one. This prediction process is what removes the need to guide or steer or interfere with the shot and let the “unstoppable momentum” move through. Search “unstoppable momentum” on premium.
Hi Shawn, Just joined. My question is, you have said that you need steel-shafted clubs are needed for the volleyball drill. I don’t have steel shafts. would a dodge ball or similar soft and lighter ball be ok with graphite shafts?
Yes, you could see about that; I remember dodge balls from my youth and they were a bit heavy for that; I would go another level of light ball from that and let me know what you find out! 😀👍
Great video! I have been struggling with draw pitch. The explanation on tone was awesome! Helped me with lag and release. I still am unsure of what direction to cut the stem. I am clear on fade pitch is right of IP, for lefty.
Is draw pitch the same as a draw full swing. I seem to remember a video where you said the draw pitch was released straight over IP but I can’t find that video. Thank you!!
In today’s video, the “how to repeat your practice swing” part 4; mid way through I do a nice pitch with the arms falling; you will really enjoy that one!
Hi Shawn – thanks for the great content. This question doesn’t really pertain to this video and it’s regarding ball flight. I was at the range yesterday and 3 college age kids were hitting the ball like I’ve never seen before. Their ball flight had piercing elevation on all clubs and shot out with unreal distance. Even the sound was different. Their swings looked very compact. My ball flight and most golfers I’ve seen (other than the Pros) aren’t hitting it like this and the ball comes out good but seems to “float” and not have that piercing effect if you know what I mean. What are these guys doing differently? – thanks.
The longer you hit it, the lower you need to flight the ball to not lose control of it; this is what Mu is having to learn right now; it is in the way the release occurs through the ball and how the wrists and hands deloft the club. See “lead hand release”, “trail hand release”, “release fine tuning” and “snap release polish” videos and then see “hammer drill” and use the door frame analogy to squeeze the ball into it’s trajectories.
By far the most important golf lesson I have seen on a video. This is the basis for a solid foundation for a correct golf swing! Wish I saw this about 20 years ago, it would have help me avoid years of trying to manufacture lag, casting the club early and inconsistent play. Thank you Shawn!
Hi Shawn blocking most of my shots to right consistently , think I found the problem watching this video can you confirm this is probably the reason. I address ball slightly stronger than normal. For a fade line up parallel left of target, swinging left edge of intermediate point. What I was doing from here was as in your video closing clubface then regripping club and doing that little shft back with head and arms that squares the club face. Watching this video I realized as I made that last shift to square clubface I was moving my shoulders off the target line and they were pointing out to the right.So it made me swingout to right. Tried with just a hammer and if I want to hammer a nail towards my target I have to keep my shoulders close to target line when I make that shift back to square the hammer to hit nail down the line, if I allow my right shoulder to turn behind as I shift to square up the hammer I now swing the hammer along my shoulder line out to the right and cannot drive nail towards my target. Sorry for long comment but does this make as sense as to good reason for blocking to right. .This video gives me this impression.)
After years of position lessons without any permanent success, I’ve finally seen the light with your lessons. However I do have one question about the trail elbow (I’m a lefty). Do you recommend it be tucked to your side on the downswing versus having a space between the trail arm and side? This in combination of weight and a bend on the lead leg is what seems like many pros and low handicappers are doing – thanks.
Hi Shawn – I’ve been busy this morning watching videos. On bunker shots I tend to mishit often causing what feels like a double hit – what am I doing wrong here? – thanks
You are not following the surface of the sand with the sole of the club; you are trying to lift the ball up instead and this causes the double hit! Practice whipping the sole along the surface of the sand like a fairway wood shot and just spray some sand divots around the green.
Great video – I love all of your content. I have a question, and I think I know the answer (based on my results) but would still like some clarity.
When we setup to the ball, we give ourselves enough room to throw through and to the target. We setup with both arms extended out in front of us, but when the ACU is passing through the door frame, the arms aren’t extended – hence the battering ram analogy.
When we lead with the handle through the door frame, do we want to send the handle directly over the intermediate point, or just to the side of it? If I stay in balance, and throw the club directly over the intermediate point, is that what creates the lag?
I had been too conscious of making sure the club head met the ball, and I tried to make sure my hands and handle weren’t too far over the intermediate and it created a whole bunch of issues. I thought if I send the handle directly over the intermediate point, there would be noway the clubface meets the ball.
Today at the range, I threw the club/ram directly over the intermediate point, and had incredible contact. I just want to make sure that’s correct before I keep diving into the rabbit hole.
As someone struggling with an over the top swing (this creeps up, I notice, when I try to give it a little extra distance) – will this diagonal stance make it easier for me to hit from the inside and avoid going OTT?
Make sure the grip is strong enough; then make sure you see the “blur of club” and the “arc-blur” series. Then see the “lead hand release”, “trail hand release”, “release fine tuning” and snap release polish” and then see “predict Contact” and the “Goldie locks series” and finally “target confirmation series”
So when working the ball you don’t manipulate the face at all? You just move it forward and backwards in your stance? This confuses me because I close the face a few degrees then when I bump into my lead side (get my head behind the door frame) it squares it back up. Moving a driver back in my stance scares me too because I’ve always been taught driver always goes off of lead heel, could you please explain and if this applies to both irons and driver?
Hey Jacob! It cannot be the same with the driver; see “the driver” video and then see “great driver nugget” and the “diagonal series” where you will see videos on working the ball with driver
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