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If you are doing weight shifting(Pressurizing the feet lead to trail) and trying to time it, tempo ,etc. Why not just have 70% of your weight on your led foot. Close your shoulders and keep them close until impact.(CLASSIFY AS A TIGHT DRAW) Maintain setup, This would reduce variables in the swing and keep your low point constant(like the tennis ball) more constant. Once your weight shifts, as scene in video, you are changing your low point and the circle would be moving(off center) as well. So timing this swing would be harder, but doable,. I believe your Diangle setup is inline what I think I should be doing?
Thoughts would be helpful or ressources
The best in this case would be to go feet together of on one leg or do the “diagonal stance series”; keeping the weight on the lead leg with a normal stance would be a loss of balance and a poorly positioned centre of gravity. See “feet together back to feet apart” and the crux of this video would also apply nicely with the one leg drill back to feet apart. Enjoy!
Hi, Shawn, my game is improved a lot since I follow your instructions. But now My ball
goes left of the target with solid contact n no curve. What’s wrong with me? I hv checked the takeaway is correct.
Hey Chris! If you were to play a draw, and start the ball to the right of the intermediate point, would the ball curve back or would you feel the need to close the face during the swing to prevent the ball from going right? See “predict contact” and the “goldie locks series” and then see “draw fine tuning”, “alignment reload”, “blur of club” and the “arc-blur” videos.
I have tried the above case. Sometimes it does draw n sometimes don’t. It is acceptable. But fade, the ball goes more left n doesn’t turn right and sometimes goes left too. What’s happened?
See “how to match backswing to ball direction” and confirm that the backswing is on the right path and then see “fade fine tuning”
I have watched the first video, which means I should adjust my backswing so that the club can cut the grass under the ball and the club head should go towards to the intermediate target without manipulation, right?
Yes! Or, if you throw the club through the arc-blur past the right edge of the Intermediate point, you Predict that your posture is low enough that the dandelion stem will be cut oh the way. You saw the “throw the club” and the “blur of club” videos?
Shawn,
I am a little confused with how much to close the club face and your head turn at address. In one video you closed the club face 45 degrees but was playing the ball in a draw position. Is that all the time for draws. if the ball is front and center is there no turn of the face to the right?
Hey John! The video you want to see for this is the “draw fine tuning” and the “goldie locks series”; everyone is different and has a unique combination of grip strength and club face closure.
Lovely stuff, I think this was a missing link for me. Ball position always changing. While practicing today I started just putting hands together club straight out knowing that’s the center of my sternal notch. I’d walk that up slightly on the target side of the ball then just adjust the club head behind the ball. That gave me confidence that if I just execute my swing, the bottom would be in front of the ball. So simple.
Ball position seemed to be much further back than I’d normally play it, which I think makes sense cuz I’d often have a hard time getting divots.
Good stuff! When the ball goes back in the stance, it will FEEL like you are delivering more to the right of the target, THIS IS A MIRAGE that the side vision is tricking you into thinking. Stay with the intermediate point for your delivery, let it release to the right edge of that IP for draw and see “draw fine tuning” video to complete the picture.
I may not be entirely done with the videos, but I have always been taught to use a 630 to 1230 swing path…does that apply to this system?
Hey Mark! See “how to match backswing to ball direction” ! 😀👍