Driver Fine-Tuning
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Shawn Clement, one of the top 20 youtube teachers and the only one recognized for teaching without body part or positions, drives the ball over 300 yards both right-handed and left-handed and breaks par from either side, and is also the only one who ever qualified and played world-ranked events with 1/2 left and 1/2 right-handed clubs in the same bag! He is the ultimate expert on golf instruction!
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Hi Shawn,
Feeling a little Defeated and need some guidance. Using all of WIG processes and ball is coming if the face amazingly. My only problem is even when hit perfectly (height, shot shape, etc) my distance is an abysmal 235. Cant get away with that distance playing from back tees!
Wondering if it’s just my speed or anything I can do??
I use a ping driver that’s 4-5 years old but not sure if that’s the issue. Any pointers??
Ryan
Hey Ryan! Yes, driver from 4 to 5 years ago can definitely be improved on; the last 3 years have been huge in developing low spin drivers. For 100 MPH driver speed like Savy, you should be getting 245 to 250 carry, 2000 >RPM spin with a upward angle of attack of 5 degrees and max 9.5 degrees of loft. Between a performing regular flex to light stiff flex works great. Try Taylor made, Callaway, Ping, Titleist, Cobra, Mizuno, and Srixon drivers at Either Club Champion or I hear PGA tour superstore now fits for free!
Your right on the money Shawn. I just went today to check new product. Unfortunately Was very similar to what I’m producing currently. Like you said Savvy is at a 100 mph and carries 245/250. With Good swing I max out at around 92/93 swing speed. 2100 rpm’s or so. Anyways suggestions/ ways to pick up mph?
Do you have one of our Mehlhorn Grass whips? See the proshop page at http://www.wisdomingolf.com
see “grass whip training” video on premium to hone the speed there! That sucker rips through the air!!
Now I do 😉 last thing, I use a 9 degree driver and my ball has nice height… would recommend trying out lower degrees like 7.5 or 8 loft?
Not yet; we need more speed first!
Working on the braced tilt along with the bolted and centered… so the idea of standing on the rails is spot on for me. When you talk about starting the swing… I like to think of grabbing the ground and almost turned of the lid of a big jar to force my hips to make the turn and allow the club to react to that. Does this make sense?
Hi Shawn, my driving not being consistent. My main problem is the push, or push slice. I do not stand open. I feel the problem is either my hands are leading the club face, which means to me, open, or my club face is open when striking the ball. When I close the club face a little at address it seems to help, but your videos do not show a closed driver club face at address. Do you lead with your hands ? Thanks
I’m having the exact issue, I have a natural tendency to draw the ball but with this new swing when I miss it’s a hard push right. Definitely feel my hands in front of the club. I do close the face a touch at address.
Just answered the comment on the driver, have a look!
I just answered that question in the “trail hand release” video and here is the answer: also make sure you see the “throwing series” with driver called hammer throw to have the proper set up.
‘It simply means you still have an open face dynamically. Just had a lesson last night where my student was delivering nice draws with irons and then when the woods came, he was slicing. Because the Centre of Gravity and the Centre of Mass is different, AND THE FACE is round instead of flat, many factors change for the eyes. He was using a much weaker grip and a much more open face than with his irons and when I had his close the face just enough to go with a nice draw, which the GC Quad told us after it was 0.3 degrees closed at impact, he thought it was 30 degrees more closed than his irons.
So, close the face 30 more degrees, deliver your “arc blur” through the tip of tee on the way up and in the direction of the intermediate point and out into the picture AND SEE HOW IT FLIES. Do a serious goldie locks with it and really let it go and see what the shot looks like WHEN YOU STAY ON TASK. Enjoy!“
Hi Shawn and a belated happy New Year!
I am raising this question here as can only see one video on club fitting but this pertains specifically to the Driver.
I know that you will have tested umpteen different shaft flexes and weights from different manufacturers, so would welcome your thoughts as to whether in general a lighter shaft or a heavier shaft promotes a better feeling of the weight of the arm club. I realise that flex also enters the equation but was more interested in the weight aspect and if this has been a significant factor in your own decision making.
If you have already discussed this somewhere then please point me in the right direction. Much appreciated.
Very best wishes. Steve
Hey Steve! We have a Driver shaft fitting we did at Club Champion for Savy going up on our regular youtube channel tomorrow evening at 6:00! Stay tuned as all your questions will basically be answered; and yes, weight, flex, kick point, AND BRAND is huge. You really have to try them before you buy them and you will see why tomorrow night! 😀👍
Shawn I am new to your site. I have not seen any info as far as where the butt of the club should be. Does it change from the short irons to the Driver. I was used to always position the butt of the club in the middle of my body or sternum. When I see you hitting the driver it looks like its pointing to your lead shoulder.
That information is not important at all; the old guard of golf instruction would have you believe it is but the truth is that we are terrible at body part and club part positioning. However, when you are getting ready to use the weight of the grass whip to cut through the dandelion stem with ease and velocity, you will always find your contact!
You don’t need to know where the butt of the axe is when chopping down a tree or splitting wood right? Neither would you to cut grass with a grass whip!
Same for golf.
Best is to see which task works best for you; throwing the club? Squeezing ball through the door frame with weight of hammer? Whipping through a dandelion stem?
See “top 3 tasks” and “task trumps everything” videos on premium.
I’ve watched so many of your videos that I can’t remember where precisely you talked about visualizing driving the battering ram (but of the club) through the door as a way to get more of a delayed release. My symptom/problem is that I am losing lag too early on the downswing even when I try to fell I am throwing the club to my distant target; so I tried doing this battering ram thing but doing that the ball goes anywhere but where I want it to. How do your students implement the battering ram concept & how long does it them to adapt? Is there an alternative way to get the right release?
You need to match the battering ram to the direction you want to start the ball-your intermediate point;
Use the weight of the ram. Let the momentum of the ram release itself in that direction. See “Lumberjacks are the best golfers shawn clement” on youtube.
Shawn,
I’ve been hitting the ball to high as well which decreases distance in comparison to my fellow routine playing partners. Any thoughts on how to improve shot trajetory to gain distance/roll out?
First you need to choose the height you want to hit the shot on! Second, to get all the way through the shot, you need a grip club relationship that is CLOSED ENOUGH at address to allow you to get through to the target!! Please see “through the ball vs atbthe ball shawn clement” on youtube and then back here for many videos that are CORE to getting all the way through the ball, like the first video of the “consistency series training”
Sounds good Shawn. Thanks for the quick response!
Hi Shawn,
at address position you place the head of the driver about 3-4″ behind the tee but the handle stays on the medial side of your femur. Is it just a part of the prediction or for a specific reason?
Thanks a lot
Helmut
The way we achieve this: THE TASK IS: I am getting ready to use my ball on a string to deliver the arc of the swing through the tip of the tee in the direction you want to strat the ball. So I am placing my ARM_CLUB unit in action on the arc and I am in a dynamic state of mind ready to deliver my task.
The result? You seeing what you see. However, if you try to copy my set up and use your PERCEPTION TO DO SO, you may be getting yourself into a bit of …trouble! 🙂
Ah got you.
But in your video with Savannah Meyer-Clement (unboxing the new Driver ) you “correct” her address position a little in the face on view though just she may know her dynamic state of mind to be ready to deliver her task.
I just want to follow a few rules that help me out with my Driver troubles😉: hitting a little more down than up on the ball and more toewards than in the middle of the clubhead…..
Pretty frustrating since years though I tried a lot.
By the way: when do you start over with videos in Quebec?
Also, starting in Quebec on May 11th!
Down and across will lead to toe shots for sure; that has a lot to do with loosing focus before or during the swing! You must stay all the way through the tip of tee into the direction you want to start the ball; have a full preview of the shot ready before you begin! (see the blur of the clubhead passing through the tip of tee and see the low point of the blur in the right place!
Shawn
How do you hit your fairway woods? Do like my latest set up for accurate drives; and tee the ball about a half inch high, and then focus on the sole of the club staying along the ground into the backswing and then well past the ball through impact; eyes on the grass between club and ball because you will no longer see the tee anymore; just like hitting a driver off the deck on a perfect lie!
Shawn
Hi Shawn,
I’ve been hitting the driver well but the height is just far to high if I want to play a fade. I’m hitting everything solid slightly on the way up to an even level of attack, but the thing is going into the stratosphere. I want to hit it lower without hitting down on it sharply.
I’ve got 8.5 degrees of loft and an xstiff 70g shaft. I can’t get the loft any lower. Would I just need a heavier shaft with lower loft to bring the flight down?