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Shawn, I am working to make the switch to a strong grip (from fairly neutral) like you recommend and I see good reason to stick with it. My ball striking was already improving quite a bit, and while it’s slightly degraded since the switch, I’m getting greater compression and it’s eliminated the right side completely, both big wins. Overall, I also have a greater sense of confidence in my set up over the ball because I know the right side is not an issue.
A couple things I’m working through and would love your take on:
I’m getting what I would describe as “harsh” compression about half the time. I sprayed foot spray on my irons to see ball contact on the face, and those harsh strikes are coming from the top half of the face. What do you think is causing that? Angle of attack too steep?
I’ve also noticed it feels harder to release the club now with the stronger grip. Any setup or release adjustments you’d suggest?
Addressing the ball correctly and consistently is also a bit of a puzzle for me. Any ideas there? I don’t know how to know if I’m aligned correctly, and as I make little adjustments over the course of a range session, I kinda get lost and confused along the way…
I’m quite happy with the change overall and committed to sticking with this grip. Just want to understand the mechanics so I can get the striking dialed back in.
Good stuff! Here is the routine written down. You need to get a date with Goldilocks! See Goldilocks series, then use that to dial in your set up to get through this routine:
Here is the Pre-shot routine’s non negotiable items
1-Best option for shot
2 rules: 1-Release into safe direction; never release towards trouble and draw or fade away from trouble; this puts unnecessary tension in the system with the “you better make sure you do this or that to not go there”
2-No strain required to execute your shot; understand that you have 2 general yardages per club; one for the flush shot and one for the good miss about 12 yards short of the flush shot. The good miss happens 82% of the time and the flush shot 18% of the time. This helps determine what club to use based on where the best place to miss will be.
2-Once the shot option is chosen, confirm the flight plan-what line do you want to start the ball and what line do you want to end? (include roll out)
3-Choose intermediate point; can be straight on or slightly off line, as long as it’s easy to see and well into your peripheral vision (6 to 12 inches in front of ball only)
4-Confirm alignment of momentum-get ready to see the blur of the path of the club and match it to the ball and intermediate point and prepare to make the ball a PRECISE INTERSECTION on the way through the IP into the flight plan! See the low point of this arc blur, which is about an inch in front of the ball with all clubs except the driver.
5-Confirm ball position matches the flight plan and the direction you want to start the ball.
6-Confirm distance to ball and see that when you let momentum ride through the blur through ball and IP that you don’t feel the need to reach out from being too far or hold on from being too close and you can let it ride
7-Confirm Grip club relation; see that you know it will curve the way you want to in the air once you allow the momentum to release you through the arc-blur into the flight plan through ball and IP
8-Confirm levels and low point with relaxed and engaged legs; legs are ready to heave the arms and club into the backswing that would match the direction of the flight plan; and feels like you are ready to allow that solid dose of momentum to ride through the arc-blur through the ball, the low point of the swing and IP into that flight plan
9-Ready?
When over the ball, See the arc-blur already moving through ball and intermediate point through this low point. You are feeling the arms and club already tracking the arc through the ball and intermediate point into a nice release snap and the body already gliding out of the way of these tracking arms. What does that feel like again? Oh yeah, about like this! This is the glue that holds EVERYTHING together is the letting the swing stay with the direction of flight and fully witness momentum taking care of that for you.
let me know how things go after that please!
Shawn, thanks so much for the quick reply. You are such a great golf communicator (hard to find!). I’m going to do all the things you’re suggesting. I’ve kind of jumped both feet first, and I’m just getting started with your videos, but wow, they are making an impact on me already.
This morning I was practicing my chipping, and all I was thinking about was an intermediate point, and giving my brain the task of clipping the grass in front of the ball. The crispness of my strike, distance control, and accuracy radically improved, instantaneously. And I haven’t even got to your chipping videos, yet! Really amazing stuff. Thanks again!
Right on Aaron!
Hi Shawn,
I’m following up as you requested. I’ve been working on each point and seeing real progress. Sometimes the “porridge” is stilla bit too hot or too cold, but I’m finding the Goldilocks spot more often now. I’m really grateful for having found Wisdom in Golf. Just a few weeks ago I was thinking about throwing a club, because it seemed to me that wpuld be a great way to learn how to release the club. So I searched YouTube and that fortuitously turned up your channel. I’ve finally found the instruction I’ve been looking for.
I have a question while navigating your premium video list. You often talk about “clipping the head off a dandelion” and “clipping the grass.” Where exactly is the dandelion? When I’m hitting irons, is the dandelion head the back of the ball, so I’m snipping off the dandelion head/ball and clipping the grass in front of the ball? And with the driver, is it the same concept but without the grass clipping? I’ve heard this in many videos but haven’t found the original one where you first discuss it.
Thanks Shawn!
actually, I think you just indirectly answered my question in your latest YouTube short – awesome https://youtube.com/shorts/yKG544tm89s?si=m5XVxbQ-GFji5Je_
Right on for finding that clip! That is exactly it! The stem is in the centre of the ball which makes the ball the first thing to get struck as you allow the weight of the arms and club to fall through the stem on a slight downward cut (about 5 degrees) so that you get a nice downward angle to catch ball first but you don’t gauge the ground on the other side and the sole of the club can still follow the ground as frictionlessly as possible to allow the momentum to continue. See the “frictionless series”
Thank you, Shawn! You have so much excellent content – I’ll be swimming it for a while! Thabks for pointing me in the right direction.
Hey Shawn!
I followed you back in 2008-2009 (back when you had DVDs!) and was an early 20s golf addict. Worked my way down to about a 12 handicap, but then got a job, had kids, and drifted away from the game. Now I’m 40 and have the bug again. But I haven’t played in 15 years! First round was a couple of weeks ago. Didn’t go great.
I decided it would be worth rebuilding from the ground up, and so I’m starting over from the grip. Here’s my question: My normal miss (both in the round I played and the few times I’ve been to the range the last couple of years), I consistently hit shots fat (I am guessing not being task focused). But more importantly I consistently push and slice.
Maybe this is a swing technique issue, but we’re still on grip. When I am working in the house on feeling what it is like to hinge on the anatomical snuff boxes, it feels right. However, when I am on the course or at the range, my buddies all tell me “You are opening the club face as soon as you start your takeaway.” Took some video and it’s true. I do open it up (and also tend to come way inside, which makes it where I can’t turn freely). At the top of the swing, my wrist hinge looks very, very cupped.
How would you recommend ingraining the proper hinge in a way that I can take it from practice to the course? Should I be worried at all about how “flat” or “cupped” my wrist is, or is that just giving in to the “positions” mess that people get themself into? I want focus on task and feel…but sometimes the brain doesn’t actually feel what the body is doing correctly!
Thanks in advance!
Fantastic!
1-once the grip is on the club, you have the grip and club relationship sealed so what matters is that when you stay with your task and the ball goes right and you feel you need to manually square the club during the swing (which would cause you to release early and hit fat shots) then the original grip and club face relationship is too open AND your release is not being allowed to happen (not yielding properly with the lead arm and hand)
Immediately see “important grip update” and then see “important release update” and then check out “backswing masterclass” and the “20-40-60 yard shots” and how to match backswing to ball direction” videos.
Then you can apply this routine to your shots:
1-Best option for shot
2 rules: 1-Release into safe direction; never release towards trouble and draw or fade away from trouble; this puts unnecessary tension in the system with the “you better make sure you do this or that to not go there”
2-No strain required to execute your shot; understand that you have 2 general yardages per club; one for the flush shot and one for the good miss about 12 yards short of the flush shot. The good miss happens 82% of the time and the flush shot 18% of the time. This helps determine what club to use based on where the best place to miss will be.
2-Once the shot option is chosen, confirm the flight plan-what line do you want to start the ball and what line do you want to end? (include roll out)
3-Choose intermediate point; can be straight on or slightly off line, as long as it’s easy to see and well into your peripheral vision (6 to 12 inches in front of ball only)
4-Confirm alignment of momentum-get ready to see the blur of the path of the club and match it to the ball and intermediate point and prepare to make the ball a PRECISE INTERSECTION on the way through the IP into the flight plan!
5-Confirm ball position matches the flight plan and the direction you want to start the ball.
6-Confirm distance to ball and see that when you let momentum ride through the blur through ball and IP that you don’t feel the need to reach out from being too far or hold on from being too close and you can let it ride
7-Confirm Grip club relation; see that you know it will curve the way you want to in the air once you allow the momentum to release you through the arc-blur into the flight plan through ball and IP
8-Confirm levels and low point with relaxed and engaged legs; legs are ready to heave the arms and club into the backswing that would match the direction of the flight plan; and feels like you are ready to allow that solid dose of momentum to ride through the arc-blur through the ball, the low point of the swing and IP into that flight plan
9-Ready? See the arc-blur already moving through ball and intermediate point? You are feeling the arms and club already tracking the arc through the ball and intermediate point into that snap release; and the body already gliding out of the way of these tracking arms. What does that feel like again? Witness the shot that is being played out for you; you have done your homework and it’s time to get out of the way and let it happen with full abandon; the glue that holds EVERYTHING together is the letting the swing stay with the direction of flight and fully witness momentum taking care of that for you.
Shawn, thanks so much for the quick reply. I hadn’t really thought about the fat shits being related to the need to square and release early.
This is really helpful and I’ll start to work on it during my holiday break.
Once I’m back in the groove a little bit, I think I’ll be signing up for a swing analysis to get some tailored feedback. Hit I think this will get me going.
Beauty! 😀👊
Hi shawn, around the 1min mark, you mentioned the lead hand thumb will fit into the pocket of the life-line of the trailing hand.
Can i clarify if the lifeline should be aligned more towards the side of the lead-hand thumb (making it stronger), or should it be nearer the top of the lead-hand thumb?
Or instead of trying to figure out the specific placement, what are some other litmus tests i can try out to ensure my hand placement is correct?
Hi shawn, around the 1min mark, you mentioned the lead hand thumb will fit into the pocket of the life-line of the trailing hand.
Can i clarify if the lifeline should be aligned more towards the side of the lead-hand thumb (making it stronger), or should it be nearer the top of the lead-hand thumb?
Or instead of trying to figure out the specific placement, what are some other litmus tests i can try out to ensure my hand placement is correct?
hi shawn at the 1min mark u talk about the lead hand fitting into the life line of the trail hand.
should the trail hand life line be along the side of the lead hand thumb? or further inwards along the top/middle?